Flashing

Kickout Flashing

An angled diverter installed at the bottom of a roof-to-wall intersection that directs water into the gutter instead of allowing it to run behind the wall cladding.

Specifications

Also CalledDiverter flashing, kick-out flashing
MaterialsPre-formed galvanized steel, aluminum, copper, or manufactured units
Typical SizeExtends 3 to 4 inches from the wall and curves into the gutter
Code StatusRequired by IRC at applicable roof-to-wall terminations; also required in many state and local codes

Common issues

  • Missing entirely, which is the single most common defect at roof-to-wall terminations
  • Improperly angled so water overshoots the gutter
  • Installed but sealed against the wall, preventing drainage
  • Site-bent kickout flashing with insufficient curve to redirect water effectively

Insurance relevance

Missing kickout flashing causes some of the most severe and expensive moisture damage claims in residential construction. Water running behind the siding at the base of a roof-to-wall intersection can saturate the wall sheathing, cause mold growth, and rot structural framing for years before it becomes visible. When a roof is replaced after a covered storm loss and kickout flashing was not present, it must be added as a code-upgrade item. Claims adjusters should always check for kickout flashing presence at every roof-to-wall termination.

What Is Kickout Flashing

Kickout flashing, also called diverter flashing, is a specially shaped piece of metal installed at the bottom termination of a roof-to-wall intersection where a gutter is present. Its function is to catch the water flowing down the step flashing assembly and redirect it outward into the gutter, rather than allowing it to run off the last step piece and behind the wall cladding. A kickout flashing is typically a small, curved piece that extends 3 to 4 inches from the wall face and angles downward into the gutter trough. It is available as a pre-formed manufactured unit or can be fabricated from flat sheet metal on site. Despite its small size, kickout flashing prevents one of the most damaging and costly moisture problems in residential construction.

Why Kickout Flashing Is Required

The IRC now requires kickout flashing at roof-to-wall intersections where step flashing terminates above a gutter. Before this requirement was widely adopted, missing kickout flashing was one of the most common construction defects in residential homes. Without it, every rainstorm sends a concentrated stream of water behind the siding at the base of the wall. This water saturates the wall sheathing (typically OSB or plywood), which wicks moisture into the framing. Over months and years, this causes wood rot, mold growth, and structural compromise, all hidden behind the exterior cladding. By the time the damage becomes visible as staining or soft spots on interior walls, the repair bill can be substantial. A single kickout flashing piece prevents the entire problem.

Installation and Common Mistakes

Proper kickout flashing installation positions the piece at the very bottom of the step flashing run, integrated with the lowest step flashing piece and the first course of shingles. The lower edge of the kickout should extend over the back edge of the gutter so water drains directly into the trough. The wall-side leg extends up behind the siding like the rest of the step flashing. Common installation mistakes include angling the kickout too steeply so water overshoots the gutter, sealing the kickout against the wall so water has nowhere to drain, and using a site-bent piece that lacks sufficient curve to redirect the water effectively. Pre-formed manufactured kickout units are recommended because their geometry is engineered for optimal water diversion. When retrofitting kickout flashing onto an existing roof, the bottom few shingle courses at the wall must be lifted, the kickout positioned and secured, and the shingles re-laid.

Kickout Flashing in Insurance and Inspection

Missing kickout flashing is one of the most frequently cited defects in home inspections and one of the most expensive to remediate once damage has occurred. When an insured storm loss results in a full roof replacement, kickout flashing must be added at every applicable location as a code-upgrade item, even if it was not present before the storm. Adjusters should inspect the base of every roof-to-wall termination and document whether kickout flashing is present. If concealed wall damage is discovered during the roof replacement, the contractor may need to submit a supplement for siding removal, sheathing replacement, and mold remediation. Estimators should include kickout flashing as a separate Xactimate line item at each roof-to-wall location. Pre-formed kickout diverters are a standard material cost that should not be overlooked in the initial scope.

Frequently asked questions

Kickout flashing is critical because it is the only thing preventing water from running behind the wall cladding at the bottom of every roof-to-wall intersection. Without it, the entire volume of water collected by the step flashing assembly cascades off the last step piece and flows behind the siding. This concentrated water entry causes severe sheathing rot, mold growth, and structural damage that often goes undetected for years because the damage is concealed inside the wall cavity.

Yes. The IRC requires kickout flashing (or an equivalent diverter) at applicable roof-to-wall intersections to direct water into the gutter system. Many state and local building codes have adopted this requirement. The International Association of Certified Home Inspectors (InterNACHI) and other inspection organizations flag missing kickout flashing as a significant defect. When a roof is replaced, kickout flashing must be installed at all applicable locations regardless of whether it was present on the original roof.

Yes. Kickout flashing can be retrofitted without a full roof replacement. The bottom few courses of shingles at the roof-to-wall intersection are carefully lifted, the kickout piece is positioned at the base of the step flashing run, and the shingles are re-secured. A small section of siding at the base of the wall may also need to be removed and reinstalled to properly integrate the kickout flashing. Pre-formed kickout flashing units make this retrofit easier than fabricating one from flat stock on site.

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